Taking a train in India is an experience in itself. When the train arrives at the station, there is a mad rush of people jumping on and off (while the train is still moving I might add) and everyone is pushing and shoving to stow their bags away and get a good seat. Well get a seat at all in fact. We were lucky in that is was 7am and Navadwipa was one of the first stops on the way to Howrah (the train station in Kolkata) so we got great seats by the window, and no one had to sit on anyones lap! Ishaan made a wee friend who was sitting behind us, and we shared our fresh cut cucumber with him on the way. about 2 hours into the trip, about an hour away from Howrah, Ish suddenly announced he needed to do number twos... and guess what, no toilet on the trains. Pita heaved a big sigh and picked Ishaan up and headed for the door. I'm not sure what he was going to do - hold him over the side while the train is moving? Hmmm. Then after about ten minutes, there was shuffling and movement in the carriage - we was approaching Howrah, a whole hour earlier than we thought, and it was time to get off.
After we shoved and pushed our way off the train, and through the hoards of people in Howrah railway station, we took the ferry across the Ganga. We then hailed a taxi and headed to Govinda's Restaurant for lunch, the Hare Krsna restaurant in them middle of Kolkata. This restaurant is well known for its cakes and desserts, and I wasn't about to pass up a chocolate mousse or caramel pudding!
And then on to the big stuff. Pita took Ishaan back to Sadbhuja's house where we would be staying the night, and mama and I continued on to Newmarket. Newmarket is just what the name suggests, a market. Its a good place to get anything really, cloth, saris, clothes, mehendi on your hands, braid, jewellery, hair clips, even curtain fabric! We found the shop we were looking for, someone had suggested it to us - and took the next few hours to decide on the final material for the curtains. And then of course it took another few hours just to explain to the people in the shop how we wanted the curtains made and what sizes and what lining and where to deliver it to when they were done. Phew. Mission accomplished.
After the curtains were done and dusted, mama and I took a walk through the markets themselves, and bought a few things here and there. I got some fabric for some new outfits for my tailor to make, and some braid to sew with.. and a few pieces of jewellery (how can I resist jewellery!).
I stopped by a man doing henna on people's hands, and asked how much for him to do some mehendi on my hand. My jaw dropped when he said Rs500. What EVER mister, I know its no more than about Rs50 for one hand! I shook my head in disgust and quickly walked on. It amazes me how they think they can cheat you our of a price just because you are western. I know Rs500 is only about NZ$15, but thats just a rip-off. And he knows it too.
We finally made it back to Sadbhuja's house at 8pm, our shopping bags dumped on the floor and we collapsed on the beds. Kolkata makes you exhausted even when you don't do much!
The next saw saw us back at Govinda's for a delicious lunch again, with dessert of mango cheesecake and chocolate cake MMMM. Kowhai when you come I'm telling you, we're going to Govinda's even just for the desserts!!
We stopped off at South City Mall, just to pick up some things from Spencers (kind of like Briscoes and The Warehouse and Woolworths all mixed in one big department store) and check out a few other shops - Radha's and Fab India. Walking around the mall, it felt like I was back in a western country, just "malling". BUt as soon as you walk into one of the shops, the service of the shopkeepers, the smell, the layout of the shop... it all just screams India. I just enjoy the AC.Finally we were headed back on the train by 3pm. The train this time was full, and we only got enough seat space for two bums. Mama and I sat for the first half of the ride, and then me and Pita swapped and I stood for the rest of the trip. Ishaan wandered up and down the carriage, making friends and annoying the salesmen that wandered up and down continuously.
Oh yeah the salesmen, They are the funniest to watch, especially the ones that bring food with them. You'll get all sorts squeezing past passengers on the train... from hankerchiefs to cucumbers, cold icy-pop sluchy things, to a full peanut and chilli snack. They carry it all mostly on their heads and walk along calling out their wares in odd monotonous tones. "Thanda mago slushy thanda mango slushy..." "moori moori...masala moori masala moori.." "Chai chai...garam chai chai garam chai..."
(FYI- tahnda is cold, masala is spice, moori is a type of snack kinda like rice bubbles, but savoury and can be served in different ways, and garam is hot). We found one salesman who sold toys for kids, and odd things like safety pins, keychains etc. We bought a little water-game to keep Ishaan occupied.
By the time we got home at 6pm, we were tired, grumpy, irritated and felt grimy and stinky. But it was a fun trip.
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